One man went to mow…
As night-time falls, the marsh becomes the province of the ‘will-o’-the-wisp’, that mysterious blueish light that dances hither and thither, occasionally picking up the slow beat of the barn owl’s wings, more usually skitting across the water meadow, leaving you wondering whether you really did see it or not. Was there a man out there with a torch in the dark? A Hare lamper? A lost marshman?
The rising sun over the north sea brings the first warmth to cheer the marsh, it produces a mist that appears to rise up; a ghostly spectre, lifting its skirts, a few inches at time. A glimpse of an ankle! A deer ankle…then, if you are very quick, you can count the deer legs; four legs, eight legs, twelve legs. By the end of the summer we knew there were at least nine deer living in that alluvial plain, a brilliant green of reed-milk parsley and marsh mallow, sphagnum moss and herbs. A gourmet delicatessen surrounding their pied-à-terre.
As the mist departed, they would lie down; the same spots every day. We knew where they were, could still pick them out, delicate brown ears hidden in the sward. On rare evenings you could pick out the grazing Does, heavy with kid.
The rains came, and rare spots of sun – enough to encourage the grass to grow; a foot, then two foot. The days of deer spotting were over; just the Marsh Harrier to entertain us – until we went up river and discovered the delights of the little Egrets. We had no idea what they were, an elegant white wading bird gathered on the mud flats at low tide. ‘Distinctive yellow feet’. At home I searched for them; discovered that they were extinct in Britain as recently as the later half of the last century. Not any more; there are dozens of them out on the Breydon water.
Then one day he appeared, riding on an ancient Fordson Dexta. An equally ancient farmer. Round and round the field he went, cutting a swathe through the sweet hay; three times, four times, five. Nooo, I thought, the deer, they are in the middle. I watched for hours, convinced that I would see them rush out one side or t’other. Then just as suddenly he stopped, and trundled off.
How odd! The weather was good and most farmers will work from dawn ’til dusk to bale their hay when they get the opportunity. A week slipped by, then the old Fordson hove into view and he cut several strips around the next field – and vanished again. Returning later with a prehistoric aerator to turn it, but no sign of a baler. This performance went on for two or three weeks. The old boy would cut hay for two or three hours, miss a day or two, then return to cut another strip or so. It rained, the sun blazed, it rained again; nothing seemed to hurry his harvesting.
By now, the strips he had cut first had ‘greened up’, a lusher verdure than before. The old boy seemed to have recovered his strength, for now he worked longer hours, but with two vast water meadows to cut, he still only managed to make headway of four or five lengths each day. Finally he reached the middle of the field – and then we saw them – a line of Does rise up from their hiding places, stepping gracefully towards the green outer edge close to the brambles, followed by several heartbreakingly tiny kids.
The old man had known they were there all the time; prepared a ‘picnic’ spot for them close to the bramble cover. Never hurried them, just hinted to them every few days that it was time to move. He had risked his harvest time and again, as the rain had sheeted down, to ensure that those graceful animals weren’t frightened. Obediently, they had taken themselves off to the brambles; waited ’till he had baled and stacked his hay, and now we see them in the early morning haze, grazing the field as they did last year. They shepherd the kids back into the bushes as the day comes alive – ‘Sleep child!’ – but they never do. Within an hour or so, the field is full of kids, miniature bambis, jumping, balancing, skipping and chasing.
The banks of the dyke are so high that the holidaymakers pounding past at river level in search of the next pub to moor at can’t see what goes on in that meadow. It is my private world. Mine and the farmers. Turn left for computer; right for the easel and my fledgling attempts at water colouring – and in between, a window on a world that hasn’t changed in hundreds of years.
There is a lot of Norfolk that hasn’t changed. We had business the other side of the river a few days ago. A tiny village at the end of a network of lanes with the unmistakable central tinge of green that denotes rarely used tarmac. We found the boatyard, in the lea of an old mill, and whilst Mr G was occupied I started to wander. A long string of georgian houses, detached of course, but that was not their unusual feature. Many of them held businesses. An optician here, a funeral parlour there. Here a flower shop, there a grocer’s, the butcher, naturally. What was unusual was that all these business seemed to occupy but one downstairs room of each detached house – normally you see a row of shops, with flats above, jostled close together. These could only be long established businesses, owner occupiers, quietly providing everything the village needed in time honoured fashion. The optician still finding time to tend his garden in between customers – chickens pecking and scratching in the gravel drive of the funeral parlour looking for a quiet spot to lay down a new life.
So very ordinary, yet I can’t remember the last time I saw a village like that. An old man sitting on a wooden chair outside his front door; women stopping to talk to each other – it was as though I had wandered onto a film set. Tucked away was a tiny tea shop, but two seats outside.
Mr G had promised to take me for breakfast when he had finished his business; a cafe we knew we would pass on route. I had changed my mind I informed him; I wanted to have breakfast right there, in that tiny wee space.
It was cramped and claustrophobic; four tiny tables piled into a room no more than 8′ square. The tables were piled high with the detritus of a thousand generous customers who had thought the cafe could do with just one more plastic rose, yet another donated tea pot stand, surely there was room for this quirky mustard pot? We ordered tea; it arrived in a proper pot, with a proper tea cosy, to sit on its proper tea pot stand, until time to warm the mis-matched rose covered cups and saucers.
The walls were covered with the efforts of a dozen local artists; and clocks; and newspaper cuttings; and notices of long past horticultural society meetings; and plastic flowers; and plaster models of windmills; and a hundred other items that no one had known what to do with – other than ‘give it to the lady in the tea-room’. Even as we sat there – listening to the high pitched whistle from the hearing aid of the old boy in the corner, and the cheerful chatter of the ‘lady in the tea-room’ who seemed to know everyone and be loved by all – people arrived with gifts for her and her ‘collection’. A plastic monstrosity that she was so enthusiastically grateful for, you might have imagined it was the first kind deed ever shown to her. The walls told a different story.
So much time was taken up with enquiring after the health of various grandchildren belonging to people who hadn’t even stopped for tea, merely paused to wish her good day as they passed in the street, and the in depth conversation with the customers waiting patiently inside the cafe, that I wasn’t surprised to see wisps of smoke emerging from the kitchen.
In truth, breakfast was slightly charred around the edges. There is nothing better than toast made from proper bread, richly slathered in butter – and with a thinnest hint of blackened crust. When it arrives with real bacon, and proper field mushrooms, and a home grown tomato – who cares that the egg took a tumble on its way twixt pan and yet another example of mismatched china plate? When the plate has been properly warmed first, and is set down on a wonderful collection of table mats, the only surviving members of a set that someone got for Christmas, and there’s two pint of builder’s tea in that pot, and ‘can I get you some more hot water’. Who cares?
You won’t find that farmer or the lady in the tea-shop on Twitter, whinging about the lack of a woman on the five pound note. They don’t have Face-book accounts to hurl abuse or ‘like’ pictures of atrocities in far flung places.
Both of them well past retirement age; still grafting, still making life better for those around them. Neither of them newsworthy.
Which is why it is so easy to forget that they exist. The quiet ones. Getting on with life.
- tdf
August 3, 2016 at 3:08 pm -
Will o the wisps are associated with folklore and ghostly tales across Europe
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Will-o%27-the-wisp
“These are the ruins of Puck’s Castle, located in south county Dublin. Many of these structures were built around Dublin between 1400 and 1550 to protect the ‘Pale’ from the ‘wild Irish’. Other similar structures in the area include Shankill Castle, Shanganagh Castle, Kilgobbin Castle and this one that is locally known as Puck’s Castle. The name “Puck’s” derives from the Gaelic “Pooka” which is a ghost or spirit and lends to the local legends of it being a haunted spot. In June 1867 Jane Eleanor Sherrard, the daughter of a local Englishman disappeared near the castle after she went out to pick flowers for her table. The police organised a widespread search but the last ever confirmed sighting of Jane was by the local postman who reported seeing Jane picking flowers at the castle. To this day the circumstances surrounding her disappearance remain unknown. There is very little information about it’s history except that it provided a refuge for James II and members of his army after fleeing the Battle of the Boyne in 1690.”
http://curiousireland.ie/pucks-castle-rathmichael-co-dublin-c-1520/
- ivan
August 3, 2016 at 3:36 pm -
Stop it, stop it!
Your description takes me back to my youth. The Tea Shop sounds very like the place I used to visit after I had cycled the umpteen miles to to see the planning officer of the Blowfield and Flegg RDC to get information for my father on some building or other.
I am very pleased that the old ways are still followed by the farmers along the river – long may it continue.
- ivan
August 3, 2016 at 3:41 pm -
Damn predictive text. It should be Blofield & Flegg RDC.
- ivan
- The Last Furlong
August 3, 2016 at 3:36 pm -
Very moving post. And uplifting. Thank you.
- Don Cox
August 3, 2016 at 5:15 pm -
Yes, a beautiful piece of writing. Worthy of Richard Jefferies or W H Hudson.
- Don Cox
- Wigner’s Friend
August 3, 2016 at 3:37 pm -
Glad you managed to take a break from the chess pit to comment on the remnants of this green and pleasant land. Keep strong.
- Wigner’s Friend
August 3, 2016 at 3:44 pm -
Cess dammit!
- Wigner’s Friend
- Peejos
August 3, 2016 at 3:41 pm -
Just beautiful and evocative, thank you.
- windsock
August 3, 2016 at 3:54 pm -
Glad you got to frolic with (well, watch the frolicking of) the Bambis! And nice to have some decent real human counterbalance to the Danny Days, Bishop Blakes and Neelu Berrys and Sabine McNeills of this world.
Thank you.
- Roderick
August 3, 2016 at 4:09 pm -
What a thoroughly pleasant and wholesome scene you have evoked, the opposite of the “alone together” Facebook generation whose heads are usually pointed down at screens in their hands rather than towards those present, and for whom conversing with a stranger in person is fraught with (mostly imaginary) danger. Sometimes, alas, ‘progress’ does not result in change for the better.
- The Blocked Dwarf
August 3, 2016 at 4:31 pm -
I suspect this post may get more clicks than you think.
Infact it so good you could submit it to Readers Digest “How I watched The RSPB Man drive backwards over the marsh, Ate Burnt Toast & learned to delight in plastic roses”.
Unfortunately you forgot to mention the “Oh LOOK Honey, isn’t that just quaintest!” couple from New York outside the Tea Room….or the “OMG! I am SO instagramming it!” Neo Londoners looking for the Trip Advisor rating in the window. - Juliet46
August 3, 2016 at 4:33 pm -
I read your words but see the pictures you are painting in my mind.
Thank you.
- tdf
August 3, 2016 at 4:34 pm -
….and the mysterious “Here Hare Here” sign left by the local poacher!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E4HHaspKL_4
- Carol42
August 3, 2016 at 5:10 pm -
Lovely evocative post. I didn’t know such places still existed.
- Mudplugger
August 3, 2016 at 5:14 pm -
Lovely piece, and lovely peace.
If I’m not mistaken, the image was of a Super Dexta, not just a Dexta. Must remove anorak and get out more – directions to a certain small tea-shop much appreciated…..
- DtP
August 3, 2016 at 5:21 pm -
Crikey, may even get a Yorkshireman feeling envious…nope, the moment’s passed! Lovely, Anna – thankyou
- Mike
August 3, 2016 at 5:33 pm -
Anna, thank you. Just what I needed after the day I’ve had
- suffolkgirl
August 3, 2016 at 7:23 pm -
I enjoyed this very much but was a bit astounded at the loving kindness shown to deer. Over this side of the border we hate them, mountjac in particular, but most are seen as potentially destructive walking dinners.
- Bunny
August 3, 2016 at 7:26 pm -
Thank you I really enjoyed the piece, very evocative and makes me want to try and find it sometime. Also probably never to leave it, in a good way I hasten to add.
- gareth
August 3, 2016 at 7:43 pm -
@ suffolkgirl,
…but they are soooo tasty! One of my neighbours goes out jogging and has twice now reported fresh roadkill, which I’ve scuttled out to bring back. Last one I just took off the fillet and the back legs (subsequently boned and rolled) and took the rest to the zoo for their various carnivorous creatures.
Last couple of weeks I’ve seen a doe and very small calf (?) come past my back field. Ugly little vermin really – but in a kind of cute way. The calf would make a good Pokemon.
Lovely article Anna
- Wanda
August 3, 2016 at 10:12 pm -
Lovely piece of writing, soothing and tender, just what I needed after a hellish day in unbearable heat. Thank you
- Michael Massey
August 3, 2016 at 11:16 pm -
To join all the others: lovely piece of writing in every respect. Thank you and well done.
- tdf
August 3, 2016 at 11:29 pm -
To differ from all the others, I thought that Anna’s post was drivel – ghastly and fake romanticism. Mythologising a false past which didn’t exist back then largely and sure as fuck doesn’t today.
- The Blocked Dwarf
August 3, 2016 at 11:50 pm -
Hold you hard, Bor (as they say round these parts- means ‘hang on a sec’). My Aged Mother lives in just such a Norfolk village as AR describes, well almost, it’s a bit bigger and the local shop shut last year as did one of the two pubs that have been there since the village got Market charter for it’s Green sometime around the reign of Boudica. They still play cricket on the Green every Sunday, they have a fair on the green every summer (although I believe they no longer erect a Wicker Man to celebrate).
There is, as Aged Mother informs me with no little pride and a fair bit of ‘of course we’re not racist’ feeling, not a single ‘darkie’ in the village…
It’s like Midsommer without an overweight John Nettles.
I don’t know the village AR describes but I have seen the view from her study and she describes it as she sees it. Me, being a soulless Philistine, all I see is yet another sodden bit of Norfolk swampland with green shit visible between the grey mist.- The Blocked Dwarf
August 4, 2016 at 12:04 am -
http://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/02/37/02/2370237_35dd7e30.jpg
East corner, the unkempt corner, of the Green. On the left is Post Office, just as AR describes in someone’s front parlour, first telegraph pole from the left is where Aged Mother lived for many a year until she was banished to the “NuUUUu ‘state” round the corner. Further down the row to the right is the Chapel where Great Great Aunty Dwarf was a mighty preacher (or whatever Very Bloody Primitive Wesleyans call them) and behind the red van just before the bridge out of the village is the house where most of my Mother’s kin grew up …before the stream cos as everyone knows witches can’t cross running water.
Like I said , I don’t know the village AR describes but I’m betting her description is pretty accurate.
- The Blocked Dwarf
- Alan Kendell
August 4, 2016 at 4:32 am -
I would hazard a guess that you do not understand what fake and mythologising means tdf.
The landlady’s report is in every respect an account of real people in the present tense. It is remarkable in it’s absence of modern afflictions, not to say modern cynicism, just for the sake of being cynical.
A thoroughly interesting and well written account landlady, well up to the standard set in the previous Quaker Meeting House report, and a joy to read in this sometimes tiresome world full of non-accomplishment and negativity.
- windsock
August 4, 2016 at 6:53 am -
Ever the contrarian.
- The Blocked Dwarf
- Fat Steve
August 4, 2016 at 6:46 am -
An enjoyable piece of writing Anna with your habitual sharp observation of the general and the specific which I attribute to an inquisitive and analytic mind that appears unable to stop processing anything that comes before it.
I am unsure how much literary licence you may have taken but its an interesting take on a reality that no doubt still exists to a greater or lesser extent in some parts even of England.
When younger I was a little dismissive of such people and such places (Neither of us seems to much like the smug and stultifying parochial self satisfaction and hypocricy that I see as cloaking some perhaps even much of rural Welsh life but that is by no means an inevitability and in such dealings as I have had there I have often been surprised at the integrity,financial and otherwise,I have encountered there ) but I have concluded in later life that there is ‘good’ and ‘bad’, ‘honesty’and’dishonesty’ ‘kindness’ and ‘unkindnessm’, greed and selflessness consideration and lack of consideration everywhere in this world and it is just takes place in differing backdrops though the one you describe being smaller, more self contained and thus its inhabitants more accountable to each other seems more likely to foster the ‘good’ or at least incline to exclude the ‘bad’. - Veritas
August 4, 2016 at 8:22 am -
Ah, now I’ve seen that link I fully understand the place in question. Moored the old wooden cruiser there a few years back and found it to be one of the loveliest places I’ve seen in years, not so much for the countryside, but rather more for the sense of community and continuity. I recall that the sausages from the butcher we used were superb.
By contrast, poor old Dilham had a shiny new Tesco opened on the bypass, ironically built over the course of the Beechinged railway line. The result was the closure of half the shops in town within two years.
Yaay - The Blocked Dwarf
August 4, 2016 at 2:56 pm -
This just landed in my inbox.
The ‘modern’ side of Norfolk, ‘contrast and compare’ as they used to say at college (uncannily enough the incident takes place directly infront of two of the fromer cafes where I use to sip tea as a student) with the village AR describes. A village which apparently has recived the Ultimate Accolade of EDP Village Of The Year and bears that on it’s village sign.
WARNING GRAPHIC DISTRESSING VIDEO (and no I am not making a funny for once).
http://www.edp24.co.uk/news/police_release_shocking_cctv_footage_of_north_walsham_hit_and_run_1_4644045? - missred
August 4, 2016 at 4:41 pm -
My heart is so full of longing after reading this truly remarkable post. I have sat here thinking, how can I create this oasis in my scrambled egg life?
Thank you, Anna, for another wonderful piece. - Jonathan King
August 4, 2016 at 6:22 pm -
Can I go off at a tangent? As you know, I love North Africa and several years ago became fascinated by a bird. Nope, not the incredible explosion of magpies (has anyone else noticed how these birds seem to be taking over the world) but EGRETS. There were (still are) so many of them and they started fascinating me so thanks to Google I became quite an expert. Pure white, looking like small storks, there are hundreds in North Africa, both Morocco and Tunisia. Very friendly, pretty, curious.
- Bandini
August 4, 2016 at 6:29 pm -
[Quickly checks online acronym-dictionary to see if EGRET isn’t some code for… summat or other. It is: Energetic Gamma Ray Experiment Telescope. Phew!]
- Bandini
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