Essence of Anglia.
I had not thought that I should ever suffer from homesickness. Not once seven years had passed since I left home – and certainly not after I returned. But I have.
The onset was as I walked through a courtyard in a sleepy market town to find myself in a beautiful walled garden, bound by weathered red bricks of that evocative shade of ox blood that is unique to this area of East Anglia. Some bricks from an earlier structure had been laid in meandering paths.
It was December; the paths were overgrown with the orange variety of scrambling plant known as everlasting wallflower taking the opportunity to flex their petals in the unaccustomed balmy weather. Chinese Lanterns thrust their way through the display, mixing pillar box red into a kaleidoscope that could only be English, interspersed with the occasional seedling of lavender that had no idea it shouldn’t be flowering now.
It made me catch my breath for reasons I couldn’t be sure of. I pushed open a solid wooden door that swung on hand forged hinges and had been repainted religiously every year since a Victorian carpenter had first stood back to admire his handiwork. Fierce sunlight had never caused it to blister or fade in the manner that anything painted in France does within months.
I found myself in a room panelled with strips of wood that were ‘different’ somehow; not the thin metric sized strips of baltic pine sold in a thousand identical Bricomarches – but a full four inches wide planks edged with lambs tongue, with the slightly uneven profile that denotes the work of a man standing for hours with a hand held rebater. They were painted – layers and layers of paint, carefully applied – but you knew instinctively that underneath lay good Scottish pitch pine.
The paint itself was not the brash colours of the mediterranean countries, the brilliant greens and blues – but gentle greys and off whites tempered with lamp black that so exactly matches the colour of English skies. Set into the strips of wood were air vents – not modern plastic air vents of those thousand Bricomarches – but solid ornate cast iron objects of beauty that someone had carefully picked out in a contrasting hue – not dramatically so, just sufficient to draw your eye to another fine example of craftsmanship.
Wooden chairs were set round the room – neither based on the design of a Bauhaus architect, nor mass produced in a Eastern European factory – but slightly wobbly, rounded by several generations of bottoms; each chair the nearest its maker could get to the original Mendlesham design within the limitations of a hand lathe laboriously pumped in a forest clearing.
Is this really the stuff of homesickness? It became so.
On the chairs sat men and women. Plain ordinary folk. Not the bloated motorised versions I had previously written of from our nearby coastal town – nor even the miniature versions of Aquitaine that left me feeling like Gulliver on his famous travels amongst the Lilliputians. These folk were the same sort of shape and size as I am – it wasn’t that we looked alike, and yet we were alike. You could almost feel the genetic heritage.
They wore clothes in wintery shades; carefully chosen to shield them from the wind and the rain. Worsted trousers in English wool, hand knitted jumpers, sensible shoes that had been polished on the insole as well as the uppers in the manner we used to be taught. Cherry Blossom naturally.
The French follow fashion each season, even the country folk; thus if the fashion is, as it is this year, for footless white leggings overthrown with a sheer baby doll lacy top, and a woollen shawl laid just so upon your shoulders – not forgetting the essential gold chain around your ankle – then that is what your 90 year old matriarch may well be wearing too, giving her the appearance of ‘a lady of the night’ who retired some 50 years ago, but still sports the uniform….most disconcerting.
As I surreptitiously looked them up and down, I noticed something else too. There was not one dollop of Max Factor between any of those of a female persuasion, nor even the men – and everyone over the age of 40ish had grey hair. I haven’t seen grey hair in 7 years – except my own. Entire families in France are dipped head first into the Henna pot and come out an identical shade of red from the five year old to the ninety-five year old. If not red it is ink black. Anything but grey. Grey is utterly forbidden – by decree or something or other. People would stare after me as I stalked through our local market with my waist length grey hair – and it wasn’t admiring glances but sheer horror, they were less disturbed when I was as bald as a coot!
These folk were sitting quietly on the wooden chairs – nay in silence; reflecting on their week, on how they could do more for other people, be a better person themselves. There was no priest offering them absolution for repented sins, nor book of words telling them the words to recite to achieve approved perfection before they met their maker, they were just silently figuring it out for themselves.
When an hour had passed, they greeted each other, and a wealth of home made cakes and offerings from the garden were passed around to be shared out. No fancy multi-coloured ever-so-trendy cup cakes, nor elaborate supermarket plastic clad ‘cakes for your party’ – just homely slightly battered slices of old fashioned parkin and cheese and pickle sandwiches.
It was then that the wave of homesickness truly hit me. I was surrounded by my own people, enveloped by the sounds of an English market town, wrapped in the muted hues of English country life – and for all my years of thinking that I was enjoying the exotic sights and sounds of foreign travel, I had never realised just how much I missed home. Or the atmosphere in a Quaker Meeting Room.
It took every inch of determination that I possess not to burst into tears.
- Moor Larkin
December 17, 2014 at 9:46 am -
And did those feet in ancient time
Walk upon England’s flatlands green?
And was the holy Lamb of God
On England’s pleasant pastures seen?
And did the Countenance Divine
Shine forth upon our clouded hills?
And was Jerusalem builded here
Among these dark Satanic mills? - Den
December 17, 2014 at 9:49 am -
Wonderful.
- FrankH
December 17, 2014 at 9:53 am -
“It took every inch of determination that I possess not to burst into tears.”
Soppy old woman! But I think I know what you mean.
- Fat Steve
December 17, 2014 at 9:56 am -
Great prose Anna but you don’t need me to tell you that …..and if you want to try to make sense of why then have a look at the poem Ithaca by Cavefy
- Juliet 46
December 17, 2014 at 10:56 am -
Thank you for giving us this poem
Ithaka The Canon
Print
As you set out for Ithaka
hope the voyage is a long one,
full of adventure, full of discovery.
Laistrygonians and Cyclops,
angry Poseidon—don’t be afraid of them:
you’ll never find things like that on your way
as long as you keep your thoughts raised high,
as long as a rare excitement
stirs your spirit and your body.
Laistrygonians and Cyclops,
wild Poseidon—you won’t encounter them
unless you bring them along inside your soul,
unless your soul sets them up in front of you.Hope the voyage is a long one.
May there be many a summer morning when,
with what pleasure, what joy,
you come into harbors seen for the first time;
may you stop at Phoenician trading stations
to buy fine things,
mother of pearl and coral, amber and ebony,
sensual perfume of every kind—
as many sensual perfumes as you can;
and may you visit many Egyptian cities
to gather stores of knowledge from their scholars.Keep Ithaka always in your mind.
Arriving there is what you are destined for.
But do not hurry the journey at all.
Better if it lasts for years,
so you are old by the time you reach the island,
wealthy with all you have gained on the way,
not expecting Ithaka to make you rich.Ithaka gave you the marvelous journey.
Without her you would not have set out.
She has nothing left to give you now.And if you find her poor, Ithaka won’t have fooled you.
Wise as you will have become, so full of experience,
you will have understood by then what these Ithakas mean. - Juliet 46
December 17, 2014 at 10:56 am -
Thank you for giving us this poem
Ithaka
As you set out for Ithaka
hope the voyage is a long one,
full of adventure, full of discovery.
Laistrygonians and Cyclops,
angry Poseidon—don’t be afraid of them:
you’ll never find things like that on your way
as long as you keep your thoughts raised high,
as long as a rare excitement
stirs your spirit and your body.
Laistrygonians and Cyclops,
wild Poseidon—you won’t encounter them
unless you bring them along inside your soul,
unless your soul sets them up in front of you.Hope the voyage is a long one.
May there be many a summer morning when,
with what pleasure, what joy,
you come into harbors seen for the first time;
may you stop at Phoenician trading stations
to buy fine things,
mother of pearl and coral, amber and ebony,
sensual perfume of every kind—
as many sensual perfumes as you can;
and may you visit many Egyptian cities
to gather stores of knowledge from their scholars.Keep Ithaka always in your mind.
Arriving there is what you are destined for.
But do not hurry the journey at all.
Better if it lasts for years,
so you are old by the time you reach the island,
wealthy with all you have gained on the way,
not expecting Ithaka to make you rich.Ithaka gave you the marvelous journey.
Without her you would not have set out.
She has nothing left to give you now.And if you find her poor, Ithaka won’t have fooled you.
Wise as you will have become, so full of experience,
you will have understood by then what these Ithakas mean. - Mrs Grimble
December 17, 2014 at 11:24 am -
Keep Ithaka always in your mind.
Arriving there is what you are destined for.
But do not hurry the journey at all.
Better if it lasts for years,
so you are old by the time you reach the island,
wealthy with all you have gained on the way,
not expecting Ithaka to make you rich.http://www.cavafy.com/poems/content.asp?cat=1&id=74
- Mrs Grimble
December 17, 2014 at 11:25 am -
Ah well, a good thing is always worth repeating.
- Mrs Grimble
- Juliet 46
- Ho Hum
December 17, 2014 at 10:06 am -
Thank you
That was beautiful.
- Jonathan King
December 17, 2014 at 10:56 am -
Isn’t it wonderful to make new friends at our age?
- Mudplugger
December 17, 2014 at 11:04 am -
By some genetic flaw, I was born completely colour-blind. Thank you for providing such a vibrant image of things I do not understand. The mental image I create may be in shades quite different from the ones you saw, but your ever-brilliant prose delivered a glorious technicolour that I shall never experience through my own defective optics.
Wonderful stuff. - Chris
December 17, 2014 at 11:07 am -
Lovely article.
England is such a beautiful place – another reason I feel extremely resentful at being driven away from my home by destructive parasites.
- Moor Larkin
December 17, 2014 at 11:26 am -
Whatever you do, dinna migrate t’ Scotland’s west coast
http://www.scotlandinaweek.com/midges-in-scotland.html- Chris
December 17, 2014 at 11:34 am -
Got to escape the Toxic Isles altogether, alas. This is no country for someone like me, not anymore.
- Ho Hum
December 17, 2014 at 12:19 pm -
If anything, the Scots are more authoritarian than those south of the border, so don’t go there!
If I had anticipated this latterday general reverse swing, I would have left 40 years ago. Pull your stumps, and go in peace
And, FWIW, the main differences between the Scots west and east coast midges is that the former are not only the greater in number, but also the more small minded
- Moor Larkin
December 17, 2014 at 12:21 pm -
Not sure if you have to change citizenship too. I’ve a vague notion that the New Puritan Laws extend their reach to crimes abroad, even if it’s legal where you happen to be, not that I’m suggesting you have anything in mind that breaks UK law but who knows what the next new law might be…
- Ho Hum
December 17, 2014 at 12:27 pm -
Probably something along the lines that at if you disagree with the powers that be, they’ll take your passport to stop you escaping and ensure that they can, consequently, inflict cruel and unusual punishment on you forever
- Ho Hum
- The Blocked Dwarf
December 17, 2014 at 7:43 pm -
Spent my entire life trying to escape This Septic Isle in general and Norfolk in particular…with the result my youngest came to see me the other day and said in his best Denglish “PaaaPaa, ha’ Du kucken im KompOOOHter and go to me waa oi need für a Sho’gun lie-sense”. Yes I now have 3 sons illiterate in German, English and even Norfolk…3 sons who can make the Norfolk accent sound even more stoopid than it already does…now THAT’s integration!
Common phrase in our household “it’s pronounced **** you’re not in Norfolk now!”
- Gloria Smudd
December 17, 2014 at 9:14 pm -
Reply to TBD … “Spent my entire life trying to escape This Septic Isle in general and Norfolk in particular…with the result my youngest came to see me the other day and said in his best Denglish “PaaaPaa, ha’ Du kucken im KompOOOHter and go to me waa oi need für a Sho’gun lie-sense”. Yes I now have 3 sons illiterate in German, English and even Norfolk…3 sons who can make the Norfolk accent sound even more stoopid than it already does…now THAT’s integration! Common phrase in our household “it’s pronounced **** you’re not in Norfolk now!”
***
Loving the phonetics! I just wanted to say that Our Esteemed Landlady is thankfully unlikely to see that famous NHS shorthand ‘NFN’ (‘Normal for Norfolk’) appearing anywhere in her notes!- The Blocked Dwarf
December 18, 2014 at 1:28 am -
True although she might see it in her inbox cos one of my email domains is ‘normalfornorfolk’
- The Blocked Dwarf
- Gloria Smudd
- Ho Hum
- Chris
- Moor Larkin
- Bandini
December 17, 2014 at 11:22 am -
Aye, a beautifully written piece.
Homesickness is a strange one – an article on this very site provoked it in me not so very long ago.
The landlady was journeying on foot from airport to Travelodge, wondering where the footpaths had gone, back home to pick up a car.Although I think that tale had a happy ending – the discovery of a wonderfully homely & reasonably priced guesthouse with excellent homemade food – it was actually the memories of trudging down overgrown verges as a dual-carriageway speeds by, and the rotten food & bad service encountered prior to finding that piece of old England, that had me feeling misty-eyed. Very strange.
Better the devil you know, perhaps?
- Joe Public
December 17, 2014 at 11:32 am -
I can’t add anything to the above comments. So second them all ………….
Permanent “retirement” is bloody hard to accept, isn’t it?
- Engineer
December 17, 2014 at 4:45 pm -
I must be a rare beast, these days. I’ve never been abroad (well – I’ve been to Anglesey – that’s nearly abroad!), not even for a day-trip or holiday. My non-posession of a passport has caused various branches of officialdom much head-scratching and suspicious eye-balling in the past, but at least I’ve never had to endure airports or the surly ‘welcome’ of border guards. Why not? Well, never really had any wish to travel. Not really sure why – but everything I need is here.
That said, it’s always fun to talk to people that have been away, whether for a package holiday or for a longer period. It’s also almost universal to hear them say, “It was great. Really opened my eyes seeing how other people live.” Then there’s a pause. Then – every time and always unprompted – “Still, nice to be back home, though. There’s no place like Britain.”
Welcome ‘ome, lass.
- The Blocked Dwarf
December 17, 2014 at 6:38 pm -
“Still, nice to be back home, though. There’s no place like Britain.”
Might be a generational/class thing but pretty much everyone i know who has lived abroad for any period of time and then returned never feels quite ‘right’ living in the UK again. Once you have gotten a dose of ‘foreign’ in you (or you into foreign) then you will never feel like you ‘fit in’ in England again. Sure you may enjoy being back and will have missed loads of things but, like those Londoners who having moved to Norfolk never feeling warm again , you’ll never quite feel ‘British’ again….and may even, in a moment of cultural weakness, hanker for mayo on your chips or bread rolls for breakfast and good sex.
- JimS
December 17, 2014 at 8:11 pm -
I think that feeling can happen to anyone who has ‘moved away’ anywhere, even for as short a time as a week.
You just have to experience a ‘difference’ that has an appeal at that moment.
The problem then is that, a) you won’t experience that back home (by definition, it was ‘different’) and b) chances are you will never rediscover that moment should you attempt to re-visit that experience.
The worst case scenario is that you end up roaming the world and have no place called ‘home’ and an envy of those whose roots stretch back 200 years in the same village! - alcantara
December 21, 2014 at 10:43 pm -
You can’t get good sex in Norfolk? Anywhere? Shucks
- JimS
- The Blocked Dwarf
- adams
December 17, 2014 at 5:03 pm -
The libLabCon (EU) are working on this white English problem with mass immigration . Your England is on the way out . Enjoy it while you can .
- The Blocked Dwarf
December 17, 2014 at 5:47 pm -
I’m betting I know which market town and Meeting Place (and not the one next door to me).
Nice bit of writing Anna but you fail to mention that those Quaker Anglians are infact typical of the English and NOT typical Norfolkers….who wouldn’t be seen dead in any kind of religious setting beyond little Jessica’s School Nativity (depending on parental income, professionally choreographed). True Norfolkers practice only the Rites of Norfolk VooOOdooOOO – ie drinking ‘bEAr’ [sic]and sleeping with their underage sybillings.
- ivan
December 17, 2014 at 6:05 pm -
Sorry old bean but you are not talking for all the native Norfolk folk. In the days before I started wandering the world the only difference between Norfolk and the rest of England was the lack of main roads going to other parts and a very strong accent.
There are now a couple of main roads to get out of the county and, with all the incomers the accent is almost gone.
- The Blocked Dwarf
December 17, 2014 at 6:29 pm -
Ivan, if you knew your Asterix then you’d know; All Gall is under Romanian control, except for one small village in deepest darkest Norfolk…
There is still only one decent road leaving the county (and that’s the A14), the rest are simply farm tracks widened to take the convoys of caravans and that ‘stoopidist’ sounding accent is still alive and kicking, with even educated-beyond-CSE peopel sounding like they have just left off worrying some poor farm yard animal. These days, they may be able to spell ‘zoophilia’ but they sure as hell can’t pronounce it!
- Joe Public
December 17, 2014 at 9:08 pm -
“There is still only one decent road leaving the county (and that’s the A14) ….”
Have they relocated Norfolk, the A14 or both?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A14_road_(England)
- The Blocked Dwarf
December 18, 2014 at 1:26 am -
My bad, I meant, of course, to write ‘East Anglia’ not ‘County’. Decent roads cease at Barton Mills when one is heading into the county, which is uncannily enough where the rain also starts.
- The Blocked Dwarf
- Joe Public
- The Blocked Dwarf
- ivan
- Hadleigh Fan
December 17, 2014 at 5:57 pm -
Cherry Blossom, I gasped speechless thinking it a recent interloper. Kiwi surely. Alas, 1906 beats 1910.
Part of the reason we love going to hot countries is the garishness of the colours, but part of the pleasure of returning home is the pastels.
- Radders
December 17, 2014 at 6:26 pm -
Yep. I hoard my Anglian secret places like gold – many of them only really accessible by boat. There’s a magic in East Anglia, a melding of man with land that has given me my most profound spiritual experiences. The isle of Ikenhoe in winter flood, the Heorot looking over Grendel’s true marsh, Orford’s shingle spit, Dunwich’s feathered souls, the barren Brecklands. Land und Leute, land and people.
The daft London colonies in Southwold and such parts are just unknowing warts, ugly cankers on Selig Suffolk. Easily bypassed and ignored.
- The Blocked Dwarf
December 17, 2014 at 6:56 pm -
“The daft London colonies in Southwold and such parts are just unknowing warts, ugly cankers on Selig Suffolk.”
We call them Civilization’s Last Outposts before you get into Norfolk/Suffolk. There is a reason why every tiny Norfolk or Suffolk village has a ‘cockney’ council house estate larger than the rest of the village itself. Nothing to do with bombsites or ‘overspill’ but after the war the number of ‘monsters’ born to villagers skyrocketed .The menfolk -or ‘their brothers’ as they are called here- dying in the war meant the already shallow gene pool went Sahara and so the Government decided to move great chunks of the population to freshen the blood lines.
And you use ‘selig’ in the sense of ‘bucolic’ not ‘holy’, I assume?
- Frankie
December 17, 2014 at 7:26 pm -
La Racoon at her most lyrical…
Excellent!
- Cascadian
December 17, 2014 at 9:13 pm -
“nor even the men”……possibly superfluous, but well-said nevertheless, an indictment of C of E perhaps?
Strange to think that cruel fate has positioned the landlady so well and so comfortably. Well deserved semi-retirement.
Like Blocked Dwarf, I have an inkling which market town, perhaps the one where several generations of my own ancestors dwelt nearby. It is pleasant to hear that such islands of sanity and moderation exist in today’s world.
- Alex
December 18, 2014 at 7:00 am -
I’m delighted to know that such places and people still exist in this country. I was born in, and still live not far from Worcester, which used to be a rather quiet place. Yes, a lot of the lovely old buildings still survive, but the populace is like a huge meeting of the UN – especially since what was the teacher training college has been given “university” status. There’s been a massive influx of foreign students and migrant workers. It’s now quite rare to hear English being spoken in some parts of the city and outlying areas. Olde England is fast disappearing, but even the new version still feels like home, warts and all.
By the bye, I once had to sack a secretary because she couldn’t spell Norfolk! - Wigner’s Friend
December 18, 2014 at 8:09 am -
Welcome home.
- Henry the Horse
December 18, 2014 at 6:28 pm -
Its a little unfair to single out Bricomarche as if the British had never heard of B&Q.
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